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I am considering whether to install myself or not. With it's own fuse box, I probably can be sure the electricity is off. Actually, I best check that anyway. There are some problems here and there with what is and isn't on or off, regardless of labeling, hereabouts. If that is a go, though, it might be a project I can do myself. Assuming the fuse didn't burn out, or wiring get damaged, in the event, or cause other problems. I might even be able to check that, a bit. I won't go into electrical problems though, if there is one or more.
A bit of digging and I found this video. It's, roughly, a general guide. The first thing I have to do, regardless of what I end up doing otherwise, is to drain the tank. That itself is going to require a bit tinkering. The tank is in the basement. There is no drain in the basement, however. There is a sump pump. I have never used that, or looked at it, though. I am not absolutely certain it works, though it was suggested that it did. I can only guess that I will have to attach a garden hose to it... I wondered why they had it, to be honest, being a novice regarding homes and civil tech. I had thought flooding but there was simply no indication of that and it hasn't occurred here even when it was happening elsewhere in town. Now I know what it was for though.
Oh, but did you see those pressure fittings? Zowzas! I'm in love. If I had known about these I would probably have had my other hot water heater fitted by now. That takes a LOT of guesswork and sweating of pipe out of the equation. Oh, yes, that... makes a lot of things a lot more possible. That's all I'm saying.
I did some online reviews of water heaters. I saw one that, as advertised, seemed like a great, if slightly pricier, option. A non-metal water tank, so rust wouldn't be an issue. A bit more digging though and it looks like, as recently as last year, the thing was a marvelous way to have intermittent hot water and frequent headaches dealing with an unresponsive slow warranty process. So, a standard electric, hopefully a simply plop, plug, and play replacement, seems to be the way. I am not sure if there is much real difference between a 6, 9, and 12 year guaranteed, but as I do things, I prefer to go the middle way just... I suppose... in hope with a touch more surety?
Tinker tailor soldier sailor,
give me time I'm getting haler?
No time, I'll... go figure out the sump pump, and check to see if the electrical is indeed off. I'll just update as I tinker. If you don't hear from me for an hour, wait longer. :p
Update: Not moving fast, but not doing too badly, really, all involved. I looked at what the two box stores offer. There seems to be some rather large price differences, which doesn't make sense. Same kit, same time guarantee, several hundred price difference? Usually they keep items of equal price ranges. No rigging of prices, of course. *rolls eyes* Then again, that was just online. In store they might have more of a range. As for the flexible pressure fit hoses, though, they sort of have a bad rep. Some suggesting they only really last for six months, sometimes far less. Oh, the salesman might just sell it with nary a word to the wise, though sometimes they will give a warning. If I have to sweat pipe though, I'm not going even partially with pressure cuffs, in any case.
After digging for this and that online, I got down to check some things. Electricity does go to, and stop at, the fuse box. I don't want to close the breaker though. It might show if electricity is still going through the line, but with water coming out and such, it just isn't the way to go. I didn't see any damage to the box or the fuse though. I also can't tell if the fuse is blown. It's a new to me type of fuse. Next I checked the sump pump. I ran the plug to a high and dry outlet, then found that it has it's own water hose. I stretched that to see if it would run outside. Nope, but it does run to a spare sink in the back room... I'll just have to figure out how to secure the hose, limiting it to the sink. The sump pump is down in a minor well and uses a float valve to operate. After getting it roughly set, I lifted the float and it seemed to work. It looks pretty old, very rough, and sounded rough. As long as it pumps, though, it will do. It might simply have sounded rough since it is meant to only run wet.
Bit by bit I am getting closer to getting something done. It looks like, if a water heater is all that is needed, ~$410, plus government robbery, will be the bill. Anything else and the price climbs quickly. I would like to get in today but that just isn't going to happen. Sometimes I can push it, sometimes not so much. I just feel like I need to flesh out the idea just a bit more. Learn a bit more about what you can, and should know, and... some other things. I just can't seem to get going, that way, either. At least much of what I have found is... good news, to the point it has been checked anyway. It seems possible, reasonable, to do it myself. That's about all I can do for now. Later.
Ja ja, stainless steel braided connector pipe is handy. Still need the threaded fittings at either end to connect it to.
ReplyDeleteOh, sharkbite, yeah. They're expensive, but can save a tad of sweating.
ReplyDeleteRe the relief line, I would not have installed the threaded adapter into the valve before sweating on the pipe. This is to protect the internals of the valve that could be damaged from excessive heat. He's fortunate if he doesn't melt something inside there.
Oh? Now I can only find the 3/4, but the 1/2 for water has these too, but... isn't this pretty much all you need? What excited me is that it also has the valve.
ReplyDeleteLike I said though, these steel-braid hoses seem to have a very bad reputation of hard, and relatively fast, fails. Unless they have improved?
I've never heard of that and never had one fail. These are commonly installed in the smaller sizes between the under-sink water shutoff and the faucet supply lines.
ReplyDeleteYes, with the sharkbite that's all you need on the supply side. I didn't realize what part had you excited at first.
To me they're meh, because sweating copper is no sweat for me.
Then I may stick with the sharkbite. It isn't the lack of skill, it's that I have a high chance of messing up the piping and having to redo. Well, and not sweating it perfectly the first time too. Muss, mess, fuss.
ReplyDeleteSo, do you think installing a water heater this way is a true, perhaps even simple, diy project? I can easily find advice on how to, but no rating. I am sure someone might put out a self-help on rewiring a home, that doesn't mean one should.
And, yes, I am actually rather tool, tech, and safety inclined. I surprise folk, when they can rope me into such. Built a shower in the basement for my mom once.
"There are no ten minute jobs."
ReplyDeleteWith that caveat out of the way, and assuming your water heater is as accessible as the one shown, and your electric supply is sized correctly for the requirements of the new water heater, and you can cut the existing pipe cleanly enough for the sharkbites to work, then yes.
One thing to note is that sharkbite fittings are not very tolerant of warped or out-of-round pipe. Use the pipe cutter as he said (not a hacksaw)--careful not to crank the cutter down too much at first lest it warp the pipe--and clean it up good with sandpaper or steel wool and you should be okay. If you can go all the way around the pipe with the cutter, do that. Don't go back and forth like he did. Generally bad practice that can, again, lead to warped pipe that the sharkbite doesn't want to bite.
One more question that occurs to me: the existing piping *is* copper, correct?
Oh, all that seems to be standard, and it is just as open to get in to work on. I hadn't really looked at the pipe, but it is copper. The thing is, I may not need a replacement. It is actual flexible copper from the pipe to the heater, as is, on both the hot and cold connections. If those are good, possibly a bit assumption, then I am set.
ReplyDeleteBut that will work fine in my en suite. The pipes are copper there as well. The one trick is I do want to put a fitting in there, and need a new valve anyway. I had thought about two valves, but with one on the sharbite I have my two valves and much less fuss.